Floh schrieb:
Hi Rolf, thank you for your comment; i have used copper and not brass tubes, copper is easier to bend; the external diameter is 4 mm, internal 3mm...which is 1 mm larger than the 2mm (internal) inlet/ outlet of the speed controller; theoretically the same diameter would be ok but in my opinion the water captation located in the bottom of the hull is in a critical position, too forward, of course this is just a feeling and this is why i have used a 3mm internal copper tube, this should help to suck a greater amount of water...i suppose

ciao

@Floh:
Ich habe die gleiche Rohrdimension (3mm innen / 4 außen) genommen. Die Position von Ein- und Auslass ist völlig unkritisch und funktioniert 100%ig. Der Kühlkörper des Fahrtreglers ist nach jeder Fahrt voll geflutet, ohne Luftblasen in den Schläuchen.

Da Hostarea den Dienst eingestellt hat, hier nochmal das zugehörige Foto aus dem BB-Baubericht:

@Sergio:
Don't worry, the position of the water inlet / outlet is practice tested and works 100% reliable. After each ride the heat sink of my ESC is completely flooded with water, without any air bubbles in the water supply hoses.

Thank you Jo, your words make me more confident and this beautiful VO 47 makes me envious : great finishing, grat colours, great details

gamma schrieb:
Thanks, Sergio. The two boats in the picture above are from the pilot production (pre-series test run): my VO-47 at the top and Lilli's VO-46 at the bottom. The kits of the series production got several further improvements: better wood (6 layers tegofilm ply instead of 3 layers normal ply), optimized clearances (respecting the layer thickness of the glue and the lacquer coats), etc.
That's the drawback of my job: I for myself take the non-optimized pre-series stuff... and the others get the high-qrade series products.

Die beiden Boote im Foto oben sind aus der Nullserie (Vorserien-Testlauf): meine VO-47 oben und Lilli's VO-46 darunter. Die Kits der Serienproduktion wurden noch weiter verbessert: besseres Holz (6-schichtiges Tegofilm-Sperrholz statt normalem 3-schichtigen), optimierte Spaltmaße (unter Berücksichtigung der Schichtdicke des Weißleims und der Lackschichten), etc.

Jo_S schrieb:
Thank you Jo, for your reply, now a further question: have you ever considered the possibility/opportunity to offer also a " luxury " edition of BB (higher price of course) with high quality wood...let's say mahogany? Just an idea crossing my mind

gamma schrieb: No. For a couple of reasons not. Very first is: the kit already is the "luxury version", equipped with the absolutely best material available. You can't get better wood than 6 layers water resistant (= phenolic resin) glued birch plywood in high-grade AA/AA quality (AA/AA = no knotholes allowed on BOTH sides of the ply). This is the material provided in the BB kit. The physical quality outmatches mahogany plywood by far.

Another reason: the original Baby Bullet wasn't made from Mahogany wood. I'm not absolutely sure what they used, but it was some bright plywood (like - maybe - birch).

One more point: a model boat made from mahogany plywood is not the best imitation of a real mahogany boat. It somehow doesn't look the same like the original because of a simple reason: it's texture is too coarse, because you can't scale down the grain (the mahogany wood structure). This is why scaled down mahogany models somehow look too "rough" and too much "patterned" compared to the originals. You can get closer to a "real mahogany" look if you take birch plywood and stain it with the convenient colour. Then you get the proper fine grain you'd like to get from real "scaled down" mahogany.

Jo_S schrieb:

For sure Jo what we get in the kit can be rated as "excellent" but there are two points which push me think of somehow different wood:
1) when the sanding of ply is not correctly performed, it causes the unpleasant view of brown lines (the internal layers of playwood)?
I sanded too much ( my mistake) and my bow was really badly crossed by these lines; to recover this evidence, i have painted the bottom of my hull and added a strip all along each sides, a full wood, would have prevented this .
2) The second point is that i love that golden costant orange colour without any grain or pattern of old boats and i will never be able to achieve something similar by staining; some, very few indeed, can do that but not me and not man others like me , it is a matter of fact
no way, this is why i was so invious of yours...great colour Jo!
Ok, no problem...Maybellene is my boat and as every father does, i love my baby!!!
Thank you for your description, ciao

gamma schrieb: Yes, that's the different layers of the plywood. And yes, a full wood would not show those lines, as there are no layers. But unfortunately a full wood ist not nearly as strong as ply. That is why some of us build there boats from ply and put a thin layer of veneer on the outside of the hull. And because this veneer is applied after fairing the hull, there is little danger of sanding through it.

But of course it is more work is not the easiest job to do, as it requires some degree of accuracy.

I don't worry about the lines. The lines make our boats unique!

Good morning everyone,

what is the best solution, bended tubes like Gamma's water cooling or straight like Jo's?
Do you fill the tube with sand before you bend it?