I mentioned the prop rotation in my thinking of concourse judging- which I have done. That is done static- on a stand - not on the water. As you have gone to a lot of work/hours on the motor/boat to replicate the original boat , it is very near perfect- the prop on the boat as presented in the photos is not right- Yes, I fully understand the wrong twist cable , prop rotation direction etc etc etc etc.....
For on the bench (concours) judging you should make a correct prop for the motor as run on the original boat- that prop isn't meant to be run. It's getting max points to win the object of this build?
How difficult would it be to print a correct prop? It would be more experience in comp printing-
For you, another step forward of your experience- who else is printing props?
Maybe some day (soon) you could make runnable props for these boats as comp printing developes-
That excites my thinking.....
Hope this translates clearly & it's not meant to criticize Lex-
Thank you-
Dave

Yes it does, no problem. You are right, if you want 100% scale the prop schould be righthanded. But then there are other things to considder as well, the long lower leg for one .. That is a greater look spoiler as the prop!

Yes it would, designing it however is an other thing. Those twisted and worped blades are verry difficult to draw. I for one am not taking the trouble for just a mock-up prop.

Lex- I checked my Octura prop chart & they have a x-430r prop in their listings- it is available from them & OSE & other suppliers-
That should fit your needs nicely having a 3.2 mm bore-
I think you will be nicely surprised at the difference in how the boat turns with the correct rotation of the prop on the left hand turns courses run-
The diameter & a little repitching should make that a nice useful addition to the model & it is period correct further adding to the performance & correctness of your nice model-
From past experiences, I don't think the drive cable (K&B) will be a problem if maintained properly-
Thank you-
Dave

Huh, mind blown by print quality and 3D work by a beginner in 3D printing

Derret schrieb:
Dave, the old (original) K&B flex shafts were without any problems and lasted very long (lubed them before and after each run). I've got some old ones back from the 1970s or 80s which were nearly indestructible. The new ones are an issue. The last batch which I got from Offshore Electrics was so stiff that they broke immediately. At the moment I don't know any supplier for soft K&B flex shafts.

I run the TFL soft Flexcables 3.2 mm, originally for the TFL outboard unit. So far I haven't broken one in this 4-60 outboard. Maybe it is to early to tell, but I think the 60-degree Felx micht have something to do with that ..